breeding-feather-plucking-babies

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Parents may feather pluck their young for a number of reasons, which are usually either genetic, environmental or
behaviorial.

Genetic factors may play an influence in some cockatiels in which the trait was never "culled" out of the breeding
stock. Although sometimes attributed to genetics, feather-plucking may also be influenced from learned behavior
modeled by other cockatiels who pluck. It is not unusual for babies who have been plucked to also feather pluck
their own young (just as in people who continue the cycle of abuse). Therefore, not all feather-plucking is
necessarily caused by inherited DNA.

The most common reason that cockatiels begin to pluck babies in the nest is that they are anxious to begin a new
clutch and wish to "hurry along" the existing chicks to get on with the second clutch. Typically, it is the female who
does the plucking to rid the nest of her chicks in order to commence egg-laying. However, sometimes it may be an
over-anxious male ready to breed the hen, or even both parents.There are several ways to handle this.

First, you can attempt to hang a SECOND nest box up on the cage and transfer the young to that box. Add fresh
shavings to the box and mix with a good handful of material from the original nest so that it will be "familiar" to the
parents when they enter. Usually, the cries from the chicks begging for food is enough to entice the father to attend
to this second box and feed out the young. Always provide plenty of soft foods to make it easy for the parent birds to
eat and pass on to their young.

Listen for signs of chicks feeding once the father has entered the box and be aware of any possible fighting or
harming of the chicks by the adult birds - which is unusual - but nonetheless bears watching. Examine the chick's
crops to be certain they are being fed and that they are healthy. If this is successful, you are all set - but continue to
be observant.

The mother will go on to lay another round of eggs shortly in the original nest box. However, do not allow her a third
round, unless you are prepared to help feed or foster out the chicks to another pair who have chicks the exact same
ages - or they'll be rejected. The general rule is to allow a pair to raise no more than ten chicks, per season, before
they are rested.

Should it turn out that the father is uninterested in feeding the chicks full time or enough at meals, another option is
to keep the babies in the second box and provide supplemental handfeedings. Sometimes, just a few feeds will
get the father interested in helping out. Or, as the chicks grow, some parents need assistance (especially if it is just
one adult feeding) and so supplemental feeds in the morning and last thing at night are recommended at
minimum.

If, however, the male is completely uninterested in feeding, then you will have to take over completely with
handfeeding full time. Handfeeding chicks can be a demanding activity and requires a full-time committement.
Young chicks may need at least five feedings through the day and can go through the night as long as they receive
a bedtime feed by 11:00 PM and first thing in the morning by 7:00 AM. Schedules vary according to the age of the
babies. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions on handfeeding formulas as each one is unique and will vary.

Sometimes there other conditions that can stimulate feather plucking. If there is an over-stimulus in the
environment such as noise, intruders, animals, small children, or other sights and sounds that would disturb a pair
from quiet nesting, this can make birds nervous and cause them to want to "protect" their young. Unfortunately, in
the animal world, such disruptions can cause the parents to harm, maime, or even kill their young, as a result of
nervous behavior. Some owners are unaware that what may appear "normal" to them in their home, may in fact be
highly disruptive to a breeding pair. Better to remove the pair to a quiet, secure area where they can raise their
young in peace.

The plucking of chicks can occur at any age, and it is typical for aviculturists to remove the young and foster them to
other pairs with chicks at the same stages of development (to guarantee the chicks’ survival), or to begin
supplemental or full time handfeeding.

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Linda S. Rubin is an aviculturist, lecturer and avian educator of 30 years, with an international byline in avicultural magazines around
the world and author of several books at www.CockatielsPlusParrot s.com. She is the cockatiel expert columnist for Bird Talk’s
website, BirdChannel.com, writes as an overseas columnist for Cage & Aviary Birds (United kingdom), and she serves on the board of
directors as National Specialty Vice President for the American Federation of Aviculture, Inc. She is the founding president and
genetics consultant of the Cockatiel Foundation, Inc. Linda is a certified panel judge for the Cockatiel Foundation, and the Society of
Parrot Breeders & Exhibitors, judging shows throughout the US, Puerto Rico, and Canada since 1984.

Disclaimer
Articles on this website are not meant to take the place of proper veterinary and other medical care. If your bird appears ill or shows
symptoms of illness, please contact your avian veterinarian as quickly as possible. Birds are prey animals and hide their symptoms in order
to survive; by the time owners see symptoms, a bird may have become extremely ill. Owners are advised to seek medical attention
immediately. To find an avian veterinarian in your area, contact the Association of Avian Veterinarians at www.aav.org.

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